Tiles, tiles, as far as the eye can see. Conquerors on horseback storming into the breach; proud merchant ships cresting ocean waves; pious monks and shepherds tending to their flocks; Christ bearing the cross to Calvary—in intricate tones of blue and white on tin-glazed ceramic tilework. Vedi Napoli e poi muori the Sage of Weimar once wrote—to see Naples and die. But had he been to Lisbon?
The azulejos of the city’s numerous magnificent monasteries are far from the only thing for the weary PhD student to admire. Lisbon has no shortage of imposing bridges and striking towers, historically fraught monuments and charming art galleries. Crumbling old castles and revitalised industrial quarters butt up against the Airbnbs-and-expats district, somewhere between property speculation and the sea. An endearing flock of magellanic penguins paddles away an afternoon in their enclosure at the local aquarium (which is excellent), and an alarming proliferation of custard-based pastries invites one to indulge.




